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I learned that the South Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if made of wood, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then crush or grind to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.